In addition to my Belgrade post, I need recommendations for an upcoming business trip to Zagreb with a sidetrip to Split and possibly Osijek. The last time I was in Zagreb was during the conflict with Serbia - the Serbian air force had just bombed Zagreb 6 months before my first trip there and the airport was filled with military aircraft. I stayed at the Sheraton along with a lot of NATO officers who were being billeted there. Zagreb's nightlife was pretty quiet then.
Since then, I have seen some of the wines I had there starting to appear in Vintages releases here (at 4 times the prices I was paying there). I wonder if the quality is being upgraded, or if it is just being exported more? Based on the wines I saw here, I don't see any improvement. But there may be newer and smaller wineries being opened that we don't know about.
Since the late 90's, things will have changed radically - so I need updated eating/drinking recommendations.