Tim hosted us for a gorgeous 10 course tasting menu paired with 10 lovely (mostly) italian wines. I was impressed all showed so well and the pairings were exceptional.
Crostini Three Ways - Prosciutto Puree, Chopped Bresaola, Julienned Sporessato. Field Greens in Parmesean Cups with Pancetta
- 2004 Bonnaire Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne
Barley sugar, very yeasty, subtle coffee, young tasting. solid acid. Age this a few years. Pretty standard and typical, probably 91 today and more like 92 Points in a few years. (92 pts.)
Pappa al Pomodoro
- 2009 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Vecchie Vigne Casal di Serra - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
What a wine. If you have an old world palate and see this, buy it! It really has a wow nose to it; massively complex. Mushroom, earth, asparagus, huge amounts of lemon. The palate is loaded with minerals and lemon rind. Very long finish. Just a touch of heat on the finish as it warmed (14% on the label) so keeping it chilled wouldnt be a bad idea. A really great wine, just on the verge of hitting 93 points. I wish it wasn't sold out in ontario. I would expect you need to be okay with a healthy dose of stink to enjoy this wine. (92 pts.)
Butternut Squash Agnotti with Brown Butter and Sage
- 2010 Antica (Antinori) Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
Modern and polished napa chard here. Nose is of vanilla, cream, nutmeg, flowers, giving plenty of oak derived aeromatics. Palate is very round, creamy, and has just enough acid to balance. Only a touch of heat noted. Good but not exceptional. Definitely a crowd pleaser, but my heart is far more in the white served prior. (91 pts.)
Braised Chicken Cacciatora with Sage Parmesean Crusted Polenta
- 2007 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT
I'm very impressed that this wine lived up to expectations and very glad to have three in the cellar that will not be touched for several years yet. Great nose right off the bat; full of dark fruit, sweat, high quality French oak with loads of vanilla, a nice high toned edge to it adding Tuscan character. It felt very authentic and not overdone. palate is even better than the nose; perfectly ripe with blackberry and black raspberries. Really quite tannic today and features a lengthy finish carried on vanilla. Galloni's drinking window starts in 2017, sounds like a good time for me to pop my first. Close to WOTN for me, this has plenty of upside potential. (94 pts.)
Braised Shortrib Gnocci with Chanterelle, Black Trumpets and Pecorino Romano
- 2007 Foradori Granato Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Nose is overlaid with a swath of very fresh fruit. Red Plums, spices. Palate is ripe, red fruited, good acid/tannin balance. Long finish. Very nice open and accessible at this stage. A very well made and a pure expression. Some at the table liked this more than me. This wine is complex in its subtlety, and I think my preference is for something a bit more flashy. Solid wine and immenently drinkable. (92 pts.)
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese
- 2004 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
This is a great classic brunello. Nose is of dark cherries, sweat, iron, blood, dusty leather, and perfume. Palate has great ripe dusty tannins, and a beautiful sour cherry, acidic, food friendly finish. 93 Points with upside as it ages. A lovely wine. (93 pts.)
Porcini and Black Truffle Risotto
- 2007 Fattoria Petrolo Galatrona Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Perhaps the disappointment of the night. It was a nice but unremarkable wine on this night. Evidently ripe and high quality with judicious oak. Not overripe however, with a very dark fruit profile. Some alcohol was noted initially but seemed to be less evident over time. Likely just a bit too young. It struck me as in hiding and closed. Palate was better than the nose. I would strongly recommend waiting on this one. (92 pts.)
Braciole in Carema with Prosciutto, Pamesean, Rosemary Potato Puree
- 2005 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Here we have a stunner, easily a unanimous WOTN. Popped and poured. Nose is super complex; dried rose pedals, spice, brown sugar, tar, iodine, high toned edge, confectioners sugar, all kinds of strawberry and pomegranate fruit. It is pure and clean without losing authenticity. Some could argue its just a bit modern, but not an issue for me. It doesn't give in at all to overripeness, just polished and clean. Palate has excellent balance, with powerful acid and tannins as expected, and a lengthy finish. (95 pts.)
Cheese Course
- 2005 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
This is plenty ripe, with a nose of balsamic, sawdust, pine resin, and bitter chocolate. Significant high quality oak is balanced by the sheer quantity of fruit. Alcohol is noted, as expected. This is amarone in every way except in name. Palate is beautifully balanced, with a firm tannic structure, poised for aging a few years yet. I think it will be better and more well rounded in a few years. 92 today, should gain a few points in a few years. (92 pts.)
Canolli
- 1999 Lornano Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
Thoroughly enjoyable wine to end the evening with. Nose blasts orange peel, walnuts, apricots, plenty of complexity and in the fully oxidative classic style. Palate is carried nicely on apricots, plenty of residual sugar and notably high alcohol (15%). Chest warming, mouthwatering, delicious. Couldn't ask for more out of this bottle. (92 pts.)
