Where to Stay, Eat and Go

Kraków's Pope John Paul II International Airport has connecting flights from many European destinations; several discount airlines, including EasyJet, serve the city from within Europe. In summer, Poland's LOT airline flies directly to Kraków from both Newark and Chicago. Kraków is 2 hours and 45 minutes by rail from Warsaw.

Kraków's Old City has an abundance of boutique hotels along its ancient streets, all of them within a five-minute walk of Rynek Glówny, the massive medieval town square.
~ Hotel Alef
Four small rooms, outfitted with 1920's furniture, combine eccentric period charm with comfortable Mitteleuropa shabbiness. The restaurant serves excellent Jewish food. DOUBLES FROM $99. 17 UL. SZEROKA; 48-12/421-3870; http://www.alef.pl
~ Hotel Pod Róza
Liszt, Balzac, and Czar Alexander II all stayed here. Restored to its former satin-lined glory, the Pod Róza is a gem of Central European elegance. DOUBLES FROM $210. 14 UL. FLORIANSKA; 48-12/424-3300; http://www.hotelpodroza.com
~ Pension Trecius
Nuclear physicist Michal Palarczyk has turned his family's house into a bijou of a pension in the heart of the Old City. DOUBLES FROM $59. 18 SW. TOMASZA; 48-12/421-2521; http://www.trecius.krakow.pl

~ Café Larousse
Perfect for a stiff espresso and a slice of szarlotka, a Polish apple pie. 22 SW. TOMASZA; NO PHONE
~ Chlopskie Jadlo
An upscale peasant's kitchen, where real Polish home cooking—pierogis stuffed with mushrooms, rich borscht, and bigos, a Polish choucroute that includes five kinds of meat—is served. DINNER FOR TWO $35. 1 SW. AGNIESZKI; 48-12/421-8520
~ Officyna
~ Padva
Italian architects built many of Kraków's Baroque churches and palaces, so it shouldn't be surprising that the city has excellent Italian restaurants. Padva is the best, with regular deliveries of fresh fish. DINNER FOR TWO $50. 6 SW. ANNY; 48-12/292-0272
~ Paese
DINNER FOR TWO $45. 24 UL. POSELSKA; 48-12/421-6273

~ Bar Propaganda
The busts of Lenin and posters of handsomely muscled workers give a mock-nostalgic zing to the drinks served along this dark, noisy bar, crowded with artists and Kazimierz hipsters. 20 UL. MIODOWA; 48-12/292-0402
~ Café Bankowa
The café's location right on the grand square makes it Kraków's ultimate spot for people-watching. 47 RYNEK GLOWNY; 48-12/429-5677
~ Dym
13 SW. TOMASZA; 48-12/429-6661
~ Pauza
18 UL. FLORIANSKA; 48-12/422-4876

~ Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery
3A PL. SZCZEPANSKI; 48-12/422-4021; http://www.bunkier.com.pl
~ Czartoryski Museum
19 SW. JANA; 48-12/422-5566; http://www.czartoryski.org
~ Galicia Jewish Museum
The permanent exhibition, Traces of Memory, showcases photographs depicting Poland's remaining Jewish heritage. 18 UL. DAJWOR; 48-12/421-6842; http://www.galiciajewishmuseum.org
~ Michal Bisping Rent A Bike
$1.25 PER HOUR. 4 SW. ANNY; 48-501/745-986
~ National Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art
IN THE SUKIENNICE, 1-3 RYNEK GLOWNY; 48-12/422-1166; http://www.muzeum.krakow.pl


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