These wines were tasted at the same Burgundy dinner in Newcastle as the white burgs, hosted by the Ultimo Wine Centre. They are all 2002’s and were very impressive.

2002 Domaine de la Vougeraie ‘Terre de Famille’ Bourgogne Rouge
Dark fruits and a meatiness on the nose. Started as a stale biscuit, that eventually opened up to be ripe blackberry.
It’s all bright raspberry in the mid palate. Quite juicey with a stiff acid back palate. Chocolate coarse biscuity oak. Has a bitter finish. A bright simple style that obviously needs 10 years to gather complexity, but has no minerality to start with!

2002 Pousse D’or Volnay Clos d’Audignac 1er cru
Bright strawberries with a herbal Gamay character. Has a complex subtle smokey air to it.
Palate has richness of strawberries and game. A plummy length and mouth-coating fruit, with incredible softness. Great structure. This wine has a gelatine texture (the first time I have used that descriptor). Great length and complexity. Very good now. Has an elegant full stop of fine powdery tannins. Drink this over the next couple of years. Probably won’t stand up to aging past 5 years.

2002 Domaine de la Vougeraie ‘Clos du Roi’ Grand cru
Dark brooding fruits with a charred meat nose. It is ever-changing in the glass- a moving target. Deep cherries and plums and game pop up every now and then.
Ah ha, first the tease….the palate starts with big fruit potential, but is tight and closed. It slowly opens up with a paradox of game and plum. A raisony richness continues to build with amazing charred beef jerky and savoury characters intermingling. Structure has fantastic foundation and texture. I am sure this wine won’t show all of itself for at least 10 years. A wee ripper!

2002 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves ‘Les Enfant Jesus’ 1er cru
The nose has a rainsony centre with savoury threads. Sweet plums and grapefruit, strawberry. Very complex and very stylish nose.
The palate has a gelatine base with an elegant talcy structure. Aged strawberries and incredible game and fruit. Great complexity with a constantly evolving spice and length. It finishes with a touch of bitterness that will seal up with age. This was a very awesome wine!

2002 Henri Gouge’s Nuits St Georges ‘les Porrets’ 1er cru
Nose has simple plums, Christmas cake and cloves.
Palate is ripe red fruits and currants with raisony fruit. A bready structure. A warm palate with spice and sweet meats. This didn’t impress, and gave me the impression of shriveled fruit at harvest.

2002 Jacques Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny
Incredibly perfumed with white pepper and Italian herbs. Very stylish hint of fish oil on top.
Palate has a fish oil texture with spice and plums with a raison middle. Constantly evolving…intriguing, another moving target. Great fine strucuture with a complex cherry and game length. Blossoming in the mouth with a rich harmony of flavours. Elegant. This was a fantastic wine with its constantly giving pepper and perfume. If only I had the whole bottle to myself. mmmmm

2002 Mongeard Mugneret Vosne Romanee
Rich ripe aniseed nose, with spice and raisons.
The palate is a big raisony style, with big plums and spice. Thyme and anise scattered throughout. Big robust structure with great weight. Not stylish at all at this stage. Hasa raisony Christmas cake length with years ahead of it. Should be an excellent one to forget about for at least 10.

2002 Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin
A spicey dense nose. Fabulous amarone characters of cloves and spice and dense plums.
Palate is a rich ballsy style with big weight. Raisony plums and angular tannins. Has a very lactic finish. A very long and muscular pinot that is balanced with very good acid balance. Wait 15 years and the amarone spice will be very intruiging. An excellent sleeper.

Well, I don’t think I bagged one of these wines. This was a very interesting tasting, a snap shot at some good red burgundies. A common theme I picked up, and a common descriptor I used was “raisony”. I guess the incredibly low crops set up these wines for aging. I wonder, however, if these vineyards were cropped slightly higher, there would be a wider flavour profile.

Do these wines always have this aspect to their style when they are young?

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