Still very primal, with juicy red fruit compote, fig and spice flavors. Vibrant, juicy finish. Very impressive. Served blind, it was clearly Hermitage, but impossble for me to figure out the producer.
No surprise then, to find out it's from the Syndicats des Proprietaires Viticulteurs de l'Hermitage - and yes, I'd never heard of them either. Turns out this wine is a blend of equal parts juice from Chave, Jaboulet and Chapoutier. They made only 60 liters of the stuff (6.5 cases), and used the bottles to show the quality of Hermitage to sommeliers at French restaurants, without influencing their buying decisions towards any one producer. They did this only from '90-'93 vintages.