The one with the tan, not gold, label. Available pretty much everywhere. I know it's considered mass-produced, but I tasted this right after a New World Sangiovese (the '02 Miner) that was a little too sweet and loaded with vanilla oak.
The Ruffino wrenched me back to a very middle-of-the-road style, but that's exactly what I liked about it. Cherry, leather, bramble, nicely forward nose - clean, fresh lively fruity palate, with sharp, medium-length finish.
In the context of being flanked by overly sweet, alcoholic Cali Sangioveses and more dry, green, austere Tuscans, this one found the zone and was outstanding.