I actually found the exact opposite to be true.
The color is a beautiful light gold, and it looks much younger than its 15 years.
He also notes how "not seamless or harmonious" the wine is, so apparently I have a polar opposite palate.
Which is probably the case

The wine was beautifully structured, elegant and about as harmonious as I could imagine.
Lovely notes of lemon, oranges, ginger, green apples and spices.
It reminded me of a restrained (and better balanced) Marcassin Chardonnay, which is probably not surprising
as the Charles Ranch and Marcassin vineyards are right next to each other on the same ridge, and Helen Turley was the consultant for this wine.
A lovely bottle that I wish I had more of.