Finished our 5 day 50th birthday trip for my wife with some great culinary moments.
In chronological order:
Huitrerie Régis - Wonderful little place with fantastic oysters and an small but okay wine list. Lovely quality, saline and almost excessively crunchy. Even the medium oysters were almost too big and we struggled to finish two dozen between the two of us whereas we are usually good for 18-24 each as a meal. Still seeing as it was lunch and where we were going for dinner that was fine. A 2016 Arnaud Lambert Clos David Brézé was a great match and the best glass was the last.
Dinner at Arpège - This had the highest highs but also the lowest low of the whole trip. The egg was the egg. stunning in its simplicity and taste. Courgette slices salted and compressed as sushi over phenomenal sushi rice was otherworldly. The star of the night though was roasted root vegetables from last season in a roasted grape sauce. I was told that they had to work for weeks to create the sauce as it kept splitting until they used clarified butter. It was top three plates of food I've had in my life.
Now the lows. Lemon Verbena is for soap, not for consumption. It was apparently very good that day because it was laced through everything. In some cases it was a discordant note in an otherwise great dish but in one case, a cucumber and lemon verbena gazpacho with mustard ice cream it was nearly inedible. I could understand intellectually what they were trying to do but it was atrocious. We had a bottle of the 2018 rendition of Guillaume Selosse's 'Au Dessus de Gros Mont'. It was the equal of any champagne I've ever had and I'll speak of it in the same breath as an 1985 Charlie, Jacques Selosse's Substance or Lieux-dits, and easily surpasses any regular vintage Krug or DP I"ve ever had.
Friday lunch at David Toutain - Lower highs but higher lows and much more inventive than Arpège. We did the 10 course lunch. A raw cauliflower with creamy sheep's cheese, coconut and white chocolate amuse was revelatory. Everything was discordant but the whole was perfectly in tune. White asparagus in a blackcurrant velouté with a salty and not sweet peanut ice cream was also fantastic. The Eel and back sesame is apparently a well known dish and for good reason (though I am partial to grilled eel). We paired the lunch with a 2014 Cedric Bouchard Borelee which was lovely but dimmed against the memory of the Selosse the night before.
Dinner at Parcelles - I had the sweetbreads as I'm always a sucker for them and they were lovely, but as a fall dish while it was nearly 100f outside that day. Wrong choice because of the weather though very good. My wife had a panfried gnocchi with fresh cheese, spring peas, courgette and basil oil. It was lovely. Paired with a 2014 Leflaive Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane which was lovely but almost still closed and despite being decanted, the last glass an hour and a bit in was significantly better than the first.
Saturday and Sunday lunch was had on our rooftop deck after a trip to the food halls in Gallerie Lafeyette. Iberico ham, fresh baguette, Bordier butter and some fresh wild strawberries.
Sunday dinner was at le Coq & fils - Had a full roast Bresse chicken, some frites and a bottle of 2015 Clos Rougeard which for the price I couldn't turn away from. It was surprisingly open and you could crawl into the glass for the nose. Heavenly, very fruit forward and not a whiff of any barnyard or brett. The chicken was very nice but not mind altering (which I was hoping for having never had Bresse chicken) but it was still a lovely night.