Our local fish restaurant very kindly lets us come in early, before regular service starts, and isolates us in a section that won't be used until we leave. This works well for us; we're fortunate to have such a good connection with such a good restaurant.
Tonight we're taking 2013 Chateau De Fieuzal white, a go-to Bordeaux for me; I usually pick up 3 or 4 bottles in good vintages. Haven't tried this one yet.