Wine guy at Eataly suggested frappato or vernaccia. Tried a frappato blend (Occhipinti SP68) and it was ok -- it needed time to breathe and was better by the end. Also had open a St. Cosme Cotes du Rhone blanc 2017 Les Deux Albion. Thought that was (very approximately) like a vernaccia. It really sang with the cioppino -- despite being a little flat without food on its 2nd day open. I'd go for a floral but not flabby white next time, CdR or try actually vernaccia.