Cioppino is pretty subject to specific locals too. Here in the South Bay there are more tomatos and garlic than you'd find in the North Bay. There are also people who insist that the crab should go in the stew and others who think it should be seperate. I call those groups the 'wrong' group and the 'right' group and you'll get a debate from each side.
Local Portuguese consider it 'their' dish here too, so Italian wine is kind of an insult.
Good question about regional chang too. Last week we had friends from Brittany cook Gallettes in our home for friends. Buckwheat flour, ham, goat cheese and fresh eggs. Chenin Blanc. Makes you think though the food had to follow the wine and that we do pairing backwards trying to match a wine to the food.