Jun 11, 2004, 06:47 AM
Gastronauta
VINOBLE 2004: Sherry primer
This comes from
VINOBLE:
Tasting on your kneesMini-syllabus:
‘En Rama’ – Literally ‘straight from the bota (‘vat’),’ hence more or less
unfiltered. Filtration is useful in finos and manzanillas, but as everywhere abusive filtration will kill even the best raw
materials. Every single ‘en rama’ product I’ve tried has proved far superior, no matter how good the regular bottling may
be. The reason for filtration is in this case truly absurd marketing: since color is traditionally perceived as a sign of
‘remontado’ (oxidation), in this niche where freshness is essential many producers are increasingly releasing transparent
emaciated garbage.
‘Manzanilla Pasada’ – a manzanilla that’s aged for an extra period of time. The process implies the
weakening of the flor that an amontillado undergoes. Age and this light oxidation produce extra complexity and depth.
‘Saca’
– each extraction from the Solera row of vats, here used to refer exclusively to those destined to be bottled.
‘Flor’ –
the layer of foam produced by the action of yeasts. It manages to isolate the wine from oxygen for a long period of time (many
finos in the marketplace have spent seven to ten years in vat). As it feeds on oxygen its action prevents oxidation, which
is crucial in only-partly-filled vats. Weather and alcohol percentage influence its activity to a great degree. Innumerable—though
very subtle—variations of the same wine can be obtained, therefore, from vintage to vintage, from saca to saca.
‘Gordura’
– literally from ‘gordo’ (fat). It refers to a quality of the must (could be translated as ‘extra body’) that is not considered
fine enough for the styles of manzanilla, fino, and amontillado. It can produce, however, excellent palo cortado and oloroso
because the ageing process in the best cases polishes this lack of refinement. In any other context it would be pejorative.
That plumpness of the oloroso, even the driest ones, obeys to this (and of course the oldest are usually touched with PX,
but that’s another story).
‘VOS’ – Vinum Optimum Signatum, or Very Old Sherry. This Sherry must average 20 years of age
by solera process and then receive a seal of approval from a tasting committee.
‘VORS’ – Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum,
or Very Old Rare Sherry – Ditto but 30 years plus. Since there is no superior category a Sherry might be 90 years old and
carry a VORS designation. We’ll see quite a few over 50 and a group over 100 years old.
WHAT TO APPRECIATE IN THE DIFFERENT
STYLES?
An inordinately high number of wines in this section have hit 100/100 for some reason or other. I want to explain
here my personal set of criteria for awarding points to these styles, which is nowhere near similar to what we use for still
table wines. While the essentials remain the same, some specific considerations apply.
‘Fino and Manzanilla’ – the
important thing here is that the musts should be of the greatest quality, from vines grown on white albariza soils, and the
ageing process has two major factors: length and yeast activity. Both are traditionally pungent, with fresh nutty echoes,
and more or less salty depending on the region. We can distinguish between manzanilla fina (lighter, paler, more ‘elegant’
if you wish, provided it doesn’t grow into a defect) and manzanilla pasada. In either case there can be (the IS in fact, only
not always bottled) an ‘en rama’ (unfiltered) version. The same can happen to fino depending on the length of the process.
Some average over 10 years of age under flor.
‘Amontillado’ – here the clue is that this wine must come from the finest
musts and has suffered biological evolution under flor for the first years of its life. Biological echoes are a plus in this
case. This is the ultimately pure sherry style, in the best cases a perfect marriage of biological and oxidative ‘crianza’.
Its potential complexity is otherworldly. Given the age it may reach you will find me perhaps ridiculously concerned with
the drinkability of these specific Vinoble samples, with the actual pleasure in mouth. While trivial for the experienced sherry
drinker, my comments may eventually prove useful for beginners.
‘Palo Cortado’ – this is a tricky one. In theory—and
this explanation will satisfy NO-ONE—it is a wine destined to become an amontillado. Here “destined” means that either the
specific plots of land [historically] or the must selection [organoleptically] suggest that the base wine will be fine enough
for amontillado. At some moment, however, the flor weakens enough or the wine exhibits a certain ‘gordura’ that suggests it
would be put to better use as a Palo Cortado, which can thus be defined as a sort of amontillado abortioned halfway into an
oloroso. I believe Andalusians will attempt against my life for this sort of cowboy explanation. It’s the oxidative dry style
that I prefer for its amazing complexity as well as drinkability. While nothing can compete with an amontillado I often find
the oldest versions hard to swallow.
‘Oloroso’ – this is a wine that’s deliberately destined to oxidative ageing due
to the body of the original must. The name says it all: it can achieve unreal perfume after decades of slow crianza in old
oak botas. Very old wines are usually touched with a dose of equally old PX to compensate for the aggressiveness in the palate.
There are evident variations in style, usually concerning the degree of relative sweetness. I’d personally say the most serious
are on the drier side, but some very good ones are openly sweet. The label is usually explicit concerning this: such terms
as ‘rich,’ ‘abocado’ and ‘dulce’ denote a sweeter style.
‘PX’ – for me PX is all about density, intensity, and balance.
The first two usually come together, but only in the best few cases can one say the wine is perfect. It is hard to balance
the ultra rich sugar content in a PX over 50 years of age. Acidity alone rarely does the trick. Complexity and age usually
impart necessary bitter notes of solera, and a dollop of old oloroso can be added too. In this level of quality some minor
concerns do not apply: cheaper stuff may suffer from vegetable bitterness resulting from excessive pressing that reaches the
grape seeds, untimely rains may interrupt the drying process, etc. Most of the wines in this tasting are well above those
problems. You will notice that the alcohol level fluctuates between 9 and 20%. Both extremes belong to the D.O. Montilla-Moriles
where alcohol levels are usually achieved naturally. The 10% alcohol of El Maestro Sierra makes it a true rarity for Jerez.
TERROIR
IN A WINE THAT AGES IN BARREL FOR 7-150 YEARS?
Yep, this is a reality, no matter how understated. There are even single
vineyards of distinction.
Manzanilla is only produced in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the proximity of the sea imparts
unique conditions for the development and survival of the flor: cooler temperatures and higher natural humidity that are impossible
to replicate further inland. Anyone can test a dramatic, exaggerated version of this statement by opening an inland fino from
Montilla Moriles (say Alvear or Toro Albalá) and another one from El Puerto de Santa María (say Osborne’s Fino Quinta).
The
weather in the bodega where you intend to age such fragile wines for twenty, thirty, or a hundred years is a far from negligible
factor as well. It was a wild joy to walk around Jerez and see the bodegas scattered all over the place. Well, even their
specific location within the town seems to have some relevance in the final product!
But there are many other, very subtle
variations that affect even single vineyard bottlings. For example, some specific vineyards (Macharnudo comes to mind) are
geographically protected from the sea breeze and that—among other factors that escape me—seems to favor the ‘gordura’ or extra
body we mentioned above. This means that you can deliberately choose musts from this vineyard for your fatter version of whichever
style (robust Fino Ynocente from Valdespino, fino that you want for your amontillado, amontillado with propensity to turn
into palo cortado…etc).
Enough for today. Be sure to read the Caveat and Acknowledgements at the bottom.
FINO
AND MANZANILLA
Alegría Manzanilla Oxidized
It’s an unfair example to begin with, but this was on the final day and
apparently some bottles, especially the more fragile manzanillas, had oxidized a bit—while of course the oxidative styles
had improved if anything. The fact that the manzanillas featured among the less desirable bottlings (it was hard to shoot
for 6-9€ bottles when you were surrounded by world class dessert trophies) must have contributed to this unusually slow administration.
La Cigarrera Manzanilla 89+
Very fine but also serious nose. The mouthfeel is comparatively light (I had already
fallen in love with the manzanilla pasada style), and a tad gross perhaps vs. the high standard of the tasting.
Aurora
Manzanilla Pasada en Rama - Pedro Romero 98
Superlative Manzanilla, period. The real thing. I wonder how manzanilla can
get better than this, so why not a 100/100 rating? The plain bottle of Aurora is pretty good (94) and should be available
around, but this ‘en Rama’ bottling is almost impossible to find outside the region. A shame. The nose has a depth and complexity
unlike any other I have sampled. The mouth is wholly convincing, with a pleasant full palate. My experience is—I acknowledge—very
limited, but here we could try the top ten in one hour, so I will/would put my money here without reserve.
La Goya
Manzanilla Pasada 92+
Super interesting nose, with full character and power. The palate, however, wasn’t up to the expectations.
Manzanilla
en Rama Saca de Primavera 2004 -Barbadillo 97++
Barbadillo releases a different saca every season for its manzanilla en
rama. I had sampled at least another three. Incredibly powerful flor reminiscence, almost a presence. Nice fruit echoes too.
This bottling seems to be the ultimate example of the biological style, with virtually active yeast inside the glass. The
freshest I’ve ever tried, of course, being so close to Sanlúcar, and a benchmark for the producer. This is not particularly
surprising since the Spring “saca” is traditionally (due to season/weather) the one showing most active flor. The Barbadillo
rep. pointed us toward the yet to be released saca de verano (summer release) as also stunning. I’ll try to get hold of one
in September.
Though scarce, Barbadillo’s en rama is comparatively almost easy to find (vs. the impossible ‘en rama’ bottling
of Aurora), so my euros will likely go here. Another superbargain at 9€ per half bottle.
Lustau Manzanilla Pasada 17%
92+
This was very serious too, but for some reason it didn’t hit higher in the Gastrometer. Nose is excellent showing good
typicity but the mouthfeel is ligher than expected, and the length is merely average within the top range.
Pastrana
Manzanilla Pasada 96++
This was my reference bottling: a textbook example of serious manzanilla pasada if ever there’s
been one. It did not disappoint me even in the vicinity of Aurora en rama. Lovely oldish nose with faint oxidative complexity,
true-to-type, long.
El Maestro Sierra Fino 92 (++)
This is a fino for professionals. If “serious” is a compliment
in other wines, here we have the ultimately serious fino. So much so that I began to appreciate the lightness of others after
trying this. Therefore my rating must be perceived as highly subjective/conservative. Indecently complex and long, this could
improve its performance dramatically with food. For those in the know. Not an entry-level bottling.
La Ina (Fino) Domeq
97
Universally known, but perhaps rarely appreciated in all its complexity, this performed brilliantly at the “El Gallo
Azul” lunch with Victor-bcn and the Verema ‘trajeaos’and again later that night with tapas in their terrace. Exquisitely crisp
and fresh, yet so complex and long, it makes you understand why all that new world expensive chardonnay is never going to
sell in Andalusia…
Ynocente Fino 93
Very serious and even robust, pleasant with long, bitter finish. Possibly underrated.
La
Janda Fino (Pilar Aranda) 96
For many in the know the best fino currently being bottled. This was certainly better than
most others, with excellent body and persistence, very crisp and possessing a superb evocation of low-tide maritime breeze
(which, though typical of fino and manzanilla in general, I find here particularly intense).
AMONTILLADO
El
Maestro Sierra Amontillado 12 años 16% 90++
This is the bodega’s entry level. Very typical, not half as old as most other
examples I tried, and perhaps with not even long finish (in this context, that is). I feel stupid for missing the really old
bottling from this house.
Amontillado 1971 Amontillado Montilla-Moriles: Toro-Albalá 93++
I tend to enjoy amontillados
from Montilla for their somewhat tamer quality. Maybe I have been generalizing. This is very old, almost overdone. Full character
it sure has, but the finish was a tad too much for me.
Cabriola Amontillado Montilla-Moriles: Moreno 93++
This one
I found very civilized, in contrast. It was a tad too warm at the time of the tasting. The finish is excellent.
Delgado
Zuleta Viejo Amontillado 19,5 94++
This is the perfect entry-level to top quality Amontillado for its accessibility even
to inexperienced palates. That is not to say the wine is less complex at all, merely that it doesn’t impose a distance, a
“Call me ‘Sir’” that others cannot avoid in their solemnity. It has also a certain plumpness that allows an easier drink.
Quo
Vadis Amontillado 96
The older brother is certainly more imposing. This is second to none in complexity and true character.
If at all I found it too serious. Mouthfilling though rather ‘swallable’ with nutty, oldish, long finish. The bodega hasn’t
applied yet for the VORS tag for this so it may be a great buy as well.
Del Duque Amontillado VORS Gonzalez Byass 93
Very
tasty. Complex, long and satisfying. Not a difficult example.
Fino Imperial Amontillado VORS 18% Paternina 95-96
Very
impressive example with excellent character and nuttiness. Dramatic persistence.
Tradición Amontillado VORS 18% 95-97
Decidedly
among the top bunch of amontillados, this is impressively old, with superb concentration and textbook nuttiness. Glorious
nose of old solera and incredibly long finish.
Coliseo Amontillado VORS 22% Valdespino 100
Amontillado can’t get
better than this. An occasion to remember in your deathbed. Sooo intense, it’s almost brutally old, and no easy mouthful at
22%, but in the course of those years it has achieved unreal complexity. It finishes with concentrated nuttiness well beyond
the limits of the senses. No joke.
Oñana Amontillado VORS 19,5% Garvey 92++
I may have punished this after the glorious
Coliseo. I found it a good example with solid character and very drinkable.
Pastrana Amontillado 18% Hidalgo 93
Not
very expressive in the nose, but superb character in the palate and excellent persistence. Again, ideal entry-level bottling
for the non initiated.
Pedro Romero Prestige - 50 Amontillado 18% 97-98
Truly superb nose of bitter almond and hazelnutty
complexity, noble old wood and hints of varnish. You wish there were more like this, especially at these prices. Surprisingly
drinkable palate, given its venerable age.
Reliquia de Barbadillo Amontillado 100 años 100
From a single cask, only
90 bottles remain. When I tried this I thought it was the Palo Cortado. The color is darker than many young olorosos, proof
that you can’t trust color in this game. The intensity is truly piercing, though the term cannot convey the velvetiness of
this wine, even in the mouth. A wine to sample with reverence. The perfume is incredibly complex, the finish outrageously
long.
Rey Fernando de Castilla Amontillado 94++
Very fine and serious, surprisingly drinkable for its complex nose,
with very long finish.
PALO CORTADO
25GF Bs. Gaspar Florido 22,5% 94-96
For a time this was famous for its
high price and the owner’s refusal to classify it under any specific Sherry category. If it’s age that imparts character here,
let’s admit this has character in spades. Very tasty, with superb length and great acidity. Hard to pin down except as a palo
cortado—and precisely for the lack of definition this tag allows. Obvious notes of oloroso too, in any case.
Alboroque
Palo Cortado 17,5% Montilla-Moriles: Moreno 92-93
Excellent nutty nose, full character. Not quite as good in the palate.
Barbadillo
Palo Cortado VORS 20,5% 94+
Superb example with excellent typicity, deep complex nose, only slightly aggressive finish.
Capuchino Palo Cortado VORS 94++
This one I tried during the meal, from a slightly odd glass. Very round and velvety,
with a clear note of gordura in the nose and palate. The evocation of nutty bitterness is superb. Excellent length and savory
aftertaste.
De Añada Palo Cortado 1978 22% González-Byass 100
Venerably old nose with excellent oloroso reminiscences
of nuts and chocolate. Impressive aromatic range, and a pity I didn’t have a calendar to measure the unbelievably long finish.
El
Maestro Sierra Palo Cortado 19% 92
Excellent nuttiness in the nose, but a tad below expectations. The palate is rather
woody for my sensitivity.
Lustau Vides Palo Cortado 19% 92+
Good nose though perhaps lacking a bit of kick (even
I get used to top examples). Sort of mild, civilized for the company. Rather easy to swallow, even a bit softish again in
the palate. Above average persistence in any other context.
Pedro Romero Prestige-50 Palo Cortado VORS 18% 100
You
don’t want to die before tying this. The nose is so venerably old and complex, with true character, the finish so incredibly
long. And apparently even I can pay for it, which I certainly intend to do soon.
Privilegio 1860 Palo Cortado VORS
20% E.Hidalgo 100
I wrote nothing but “Glorious” and “Eternal”. We sampled this at the D.O. Jerez room, a place that alone
would have deserved our pilgrimage to Jerez. Some of these bottles rank among those myths I was SURE I would never try in
my lifetime.
Cardenal Palo Cortado VORS 20,5% Valdespino (Macharnudo) 100+
If at all I liked this even better than
the Privilegio, hence the ridiculous 100+ rating. Who are you laughing at? Try it or shut up :^)
Now seriously, this is
a wine beyond any literary mysticism I feel capable of, so let my silence prevail as better indication of my immense respect.
Reliquia
de Barbadillo Palo Cortado 100 años 100
From a single cask, only 90 bottles remain. There’s nothing you can miss in this
wine. The Reliquia lineup comes in beautiful flasks with pretty calligraphy. I used to suspect this sort of presentation (and
to resent the—I think—180€ tag). There’s little I can do for the price but raise it by praising the wine, but at least now
I know and indeed love what’s inside the pretty bottles. We tried three of the four bottlings (missed the PX) and the only
fault I could find was the woodiness of the oloroso in the mouth. Hence the three get 299 points from me.
OLOROSO
Lustau
Añada 1989 Rich Oloroso 20% 91
Fairly muted nose at the moment of tasting. A tad hot in the palate? Interesting full palate
and only marginally sweet, which is a plus.
Fundación 1819 Oloroso 18% Montilla-Moriles: Moreno 91++
A tad too dry
in the palate for my taste. Impressive nonetheless.
Lustau Oloroso VORS 22% 93-95
Excellent nose, with surprisingly
round palate. Superb persistence.
Lustau Almacenista Pata de Gallina Oloroso 20% 93++
Unquestionably good. Superserious.
Also in the palate with excellent length.
PR Prestige -50 Oloroso VORS 18% 96
Superserious, truly old with superb
nose and even slightly woody palate. Excellent persistence.
Reliquia de Barbadillo Oloroso 150 años 99
“This is
so good it’s bad.” At least that’s my funny version of the rep’s words. From a single cask, only 90 bottles remain. Indeed,
the perfume is so glorious that there’s no way the palate could match this warmth and velvetiness. The finish is rather aggressive
due to its extremely old age (about 150 years). I won’t even attempt a description.
Rey Fernando de Castilla Oloroso
94+
Very intense nose, suggestive of old age. Precisely balanced with long nutty finish.
PX
De Bandera PX
VORS 18% 94-96
Superb nose with excellent typicity and great solera character. World class.
Tradición PX VOS 16%
90+
This bodega is doing great things, but I believed the PX was VORS. Very nice for its age, but obviously younger and
fresher than its neighbors on Thursday morning. In the context I had it there was no way I could not penalize it by comparison.
Garvey
1780 PX VOS 15% 93
Far more serious than the VOS equivalent from Bodegas Tradicion, I would say, more complex and denser.
The palate is superb too.
Garvey 1780 PX VORS 15% 94-96
This was almost too old, like their outrageously good PX
Gran Orden (which I didn’t try there and then because at least that one’s widely available) when it’s just opened, a tad too
toasty at the beginning. Superior to the VOS version, with excellent length.
La Cañada PX 15% Montilla-Moriles: Pérez
Barquero 91
I expected more from this one. After all, many of us non-Andalusians discovered PX thanks to this house’s basic
bottling, and I had great expectations from the high-end label.
PX de Añada 2002 Montilla-Moriles: Pérez Barquero
15% 88-89
This is one of those young versions so popular now. It’s good but maybe not fresh enough. Launched to compete
with Alvear and Toro-Albalá. I haven’t tried their 2002 yet, though. Bear in mind that I personally have never considered
even the best examples of young PX deserving of 92+ ratings.
PX 1967 PX 18% Montilla-Moriles: Toro-Albalá 96++
Mindblowing
intensity in the nose, with a superior note of old solera. Immense. I still don’t know whether I really like the 1945 better
than this one.
PX 1945 PX 20% Montilla-Moriles: Toro-Albalá 97+
Again impressive nose of extremely old PX, in fact
maybe too much.
El Maestro Sierra PX Viejísimo 10% 100
Otherworldly. This has it all. At the top level of both density
and expression, with sublime balance. Perfection in your nose and mouth. And the best thing is how it lasts…
Santa
Ana 1861 PX VORS 15% E. Hidalgo 100
Impossibly good. Superb balance. Unctuousness beyond belief: this coats your palate
for hours. My kingdom for new superlatives I haven’t worn out yet. This must be perfection. In the absence of Osborne (inexplicable,
by the way) I will not hesitate: 100/100.
Una Vida PX 17% Montilla-Moriles: Moreno 90
Good enough, punished by
the vicinity. Serious though younger. Shorter too.
Virgilio PX 9% Montilla-Moriles: Moreno 95++
Textbook Montilla
style. Misses only a tad of density, but the balance is just short of perfect. Excellent complexity though perhaps behind
the best examples. Apparently one of the most affordable among the best, though I’ve never seen one in a shop.
Caveat
and Acknowledgements: I don’t know sheep about Sherry. This is just one person’s opinion. Most of this text is a personal
digest of different articles I’ve read and live/online conversations I’ve enjoyed over the past year with such colorful characters
as Jesús Barquín, Francisco Rivas, Álvaro Girón, and Paco del Castillo, as well as with a whole crew of winenuts. I was fortunate
enough to taste many of these wines side by side with fellow forumites jesusbs, Victor_bcn, and Francisco Rivas. For more
information you are lucky to have Jesús Barquín available online at Squires and the others at
www.verema.com (click on the English side), and naturally I’ll do my best to answer/transfer whatever questions
you may have.
This is a final version polished by their commentaries.
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Free Winona!
