Forgot to mention that a neat wine shop to visit in Uptown Square (on the river near Zoo) is Hopper's Wine and Spirit. Great guy and his store is stocked with mainly French wine.
nola - no oysters again. I was so, so sick the March after the storm, first the oysters, then what a few people later told me was something pretty comman for people coming into the city after the storm. Fever, aches, chills, almost like an infection.
After this trip I understand a little better the little rift between you and Lorrie. I really got the sense people don't want to talk about the storm, they're moving on. It's not hostile or anything, they are just done with the debate about what to do, they're just doing it.
Wineaux - That was good commentary. I thought of this thread sitting in 'Coops Place' on Decatur. We had come in on Saturday and the crew was smoking a pork butt in the back. Totally off menu, they just decided to smoke a pork butt. They told us it would be ready the next day, and we went back for it.
I thought what a shame it would be to spend 4 days in NOLA and only eat at famous upscale places and miss out on somewhere like Coops. Dive bar, 7-8 rocky tables, not counting the pool table. Lighting mostly coming from the video poker. Bull dog with the run of the place. Bartner whose been there since 1983, and a group of misfits making some really good food on the back courtyard.
Sorry to hear that. I love Gulf oysters but I never had them after a storm. I always thought the best oysters had to come from cold water, but that's not entirely true.
Just one more sip.
Posts: 24979 | Location: NY | Registered: Oct 18, 2001
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stefania Wine: nola - no oysters again. I was so, so sick the March after the storm, first the oysters, then what a few people later told me was something pretty comman for people coming into the city after the storm. Fever, aches, chills, almost like an infection.
After this trip I understand a little better the little rift between you and Lorrie. I really got the sense people don't want to talk about the storm, they're moving on. It's not hostile or anything, they are just done with the debate about what to do, they're just doing it.
Paul- I'm not a raw oyster guy for that reason exactly. As for the storm stuff I think you got it. I totally whiffed on you coming to town, I wish we could have gotten something together. Life has been nuts and playing tourist in the FQ is something we don't do enough of.
nola, the October trip is always iffy for us, until we had rain the week before, we thought we'd have to cancel, but the rain slowed down the Cabernet and we're not harvesting that until next week.
We're pretty sure we're coming back in April for F.Q. Fest. Probably bringing some friends along.
Paul Romero (tlily)- Owner, Winemaker, Tour Guide Stefania Wine http://www.stefaniawine.com
Posts: 5716 | Location: San Jose | Registered: May 24, 2002
I almost feel hesitant about posting this because I'm pretty sure that my words aren't going to justify what an amazing time I had in New Orleans. There truly is nothing like it anywhere else in the world.
Arrived late on Thursday night so I had to miss Stella. Started off with cafe au lait and beignets at Cafe Du Monde for breakfast on Friday morning, which was an absolute joy. The temperature was about 50 degrees warmer there than Toronto so my friend and I sat on the patio and just watched people for an hour.
Next, we went and wandered through the French Market and did some shopping in the French Quarter. I was pretty awestruck at the architecture and the sheer age of everything around me. We grabbed a couple of "go" cups full of delicious bloody marys and continued to just walk around.
Had lunch on Friday at Galatoire's, which I enjoyed thoroughly. We had oysters rockefeller, shrimp remoulade, crabmeat sardou and trout yvonne, all of which were amazing. A nice 1er Cru white burg from the Mercurey to go along with it. Haute cuisine this was not, but it was perfectly prepared and one truly got the sense that this place was the same 50 years ago and would be the same in 150. I'm glad we didn't skip it.
In the afternoon, we just did a ton of walking around and then headed to Cochon for dinner. Totally not what I expected, but the food was outstanding. After all of the walking, we were starving so we ordered the fried alligator, the okra and cornbread fritter and fried boudin as starters. She had Louisana cochon with cracklins for a main and I had rabbit dumplings. Both were out of this world good. We had a yummy Zin with dinner (think it was the Segeshio, but I'm going from memory here). The only disappointing thing was the dessert, which was a root beer parfait (very strange flavours).
I was about to explode so our server brought over a glass of catdaddy moonshine, which might be one of the most effective digestifs I've ever had, and I caught a second wind so we went and did the touristy thing and walked bourbon street for a couple of hours (glad i saw it, but wouldn't go back).
Saturday started off with breakfast at Elizabeth's in the bywater. My friend had redneck eggs (poached eggs on fried green tomatoes with grits) and I had a cornbread waffle with shredded duck and grits, along with some of the best coffee I've ever had. Truly a great hole-in-the wall breakfast spot frequented only be locals and those "in-the-know" (at least that's what our cabbie told us).
Went shopping on Magazine on Saturday and stopped at Domilise's for Po Boys for lunch, one shimp and one sausage and gravy. I've tried to make po' boys before, but mine are nothing compared to the authentic (I'd love for someone in Toronto to make New Orleans style bread).
Stopped at Acme's in the quarter for a snack before our 9 p.m. dinner so we had some of the charbroiled oysters, which were outstanding.
Dinner at Lilette was outstanding as well. Three apps again (everything at all of these restaurants was so good we couldn't limit ourselves to just one). Escargots for my friend, a chilled crab, corn and avocado soup for me, and sticky lime ginger shortribs to share. The escargots and the ribs were a 10/10 and the soup a 9/10.
Mains were a seared marlin with grits and veg for my friend and duck with creamy polenta and fennel and coriander jus.
Dessert was three scoops of homemade ice cream (pistachio, vanilla and espresso chocolate chip)
Had a 2003 1er Cru Clos des Ormes with the mains and a Canadian sparkling vidal icewine for dessert (we felt it was our patriotic duty to order it) and both were beautiful wines.
Again, amazing food and really good wines.
Listened to live music on Frenchman's street on Saturday night until late and then went back to the hotel and collapsed.
Sunday started off again at Cafe du Monde (those beignets are addictive).
Tour of the garden district on sunday morning. Cocktail at Commander's palace to finish up. Beautiful part of town.
Had Po' Boys again for luch (one oyster and one debris) from Mothers, which was a great experience.
Dinner was at Upperline, and was simply the highlight of the trip food wise.
Fried Green Tomato and shrimp remoulade, duck and andouille etouffee with corn cakes and pepper jelly, and crispy oysters claude for starters. Cane county shrimp with crispy grits and braised lamb shanks for mains and a slice of warm pecan pie a la mode for dessert. I can't even begin to describe how good this food was, so I won't even try as I simply won't do it justice.
Had a very nice pinot from Ancien with this dinner, which was one of the best meals I've ever had.
At Upperline we were the last seating that day and the chef came out and chatted with us for 15 minutes while we waited for our cab and this was indicative of the experience for the weekend. I've never met more friendly people anywhere and I've never been to a city quite like New Orleans. One cabbie driving us told us that he thought it should be its own country and I think he's spot on.
I loved every minute of my time in New Orleans and I can't wait to go back (already considering a trip for the Packers Saints Monday nighter at the end of November).
Thanks to all for your recommendations.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: CSM,
Show me a good loser, I'll show you a loser - Vince Lombardi
Posts: 305 | Location: Toronto | Registered: Jun 05, 2008
Originally posted by Stefania Wine: For some of us CSM, it gets in our soul, welcome to the club.
My friend and I are now charter members I think.
She had (actually was lucky enough) to stay another two nights and ate at Stella last night and she said it was even better than Upperline, which I have a hard time believing. Can't wait to hear what she ate when she gets back.
Show me a good loser, I'll show you a loser - Vince Lombardi
Posts: 305 | Location: Toronto | Registered: Jun 05, 2008
CSM- Nice job. You did it right ! Impressive stamina regarding food and drink.
Your friend is right about Stella. I will have to try Upperline. I have wanted to for a long time and never seem to make it there. Nothing like a bloody mary and a stroll on Royal Street on a weekend morning. Even better when the temps are under 80...
Your description of Galatoires was dead on. It's an institution that must be tried.
I'm crossing threads here but I just got an image of Board-O in his underwear on Bourbon street with TBird in tow. Disturbing and funny all at the same time
TBird on Bourbon Street makes me shutter a little too.
Paul Romero (tlily)- Owner, Winemaker, Tour Guide Stefania Wine http://www.stefaniawine.com
Posts: 5716 | Location: San Jose | Registered: May 24, 2002
Glad you enjoyed New Orleans, CSM. It's nice to hear after she who shall not be named. Come back and if you like, I'm sure we can get you a job with the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Oh and btw, we'll be eating at Stella Friday night.
And as for our oysters, I've eaten them every way over the last three years without any side affects whatsoever. I always have, though, avoided raw oysters everywhere during warm weather, which for me means May through mid-October.
Posts: 149 | Location: New Orleans, LA | Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Originally posted by wineaux: Glad you enjoyed New Orleans, CSM. It's nice to hear after she who shall not be named. Come back and if you like, I'm sure we can get you a job with the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Oh and btw, we'll be eating at Stella Friday night.
And as for our oysters, I've eaten them every way over the last three years without any side affects whatsoever. I always have, though, avoided raw oysters everywhere during warm weather, which for me means May through mid-October.
It was quite good but didn't have that wow factor across the board. I had the Duck Five Ways (Szechwan Seared Breast, Lacquered Leg and Thigh, Moo Shoo Pancake Stir-Fry, Duck Miso Broth, Foie Gras Won Tons and Currant Cassis Reduction) as an entree and while the duck breast was killer and may have been the best I've ever had the moo shoo stir-fry and lacquered leg and thigh didn't stand out from other serious Chinese cuisine I've had in the past. There was also an somewhat odd disconnect between the restaurant's decor (think French country) and the Asian-inspired food. Service was good and the wine list was decent but lacking in a few areas. Now don't get me wrong, the food was seriously good but the overall experience doesn't put Stella on my must return list.
Posts: 149 | Location: New Orleans, LA | Registered: Nov 25, 2002
We were in NOLA this past week and had a blast. Great weather, food, architecture, music, and vibe. It was my GF's first and mine since Katrina. We didn't visit any devastated areas. We mostly visited the French Quarter, Garden District, and some plantations. Here are some restaurants that we were able to try:
1) Acme's (FQ) - good to very good. GF thought they had the best gumbo although I am not sure if it's because it was the first place we ate at after arriving. I had the crawfish etoufee (good), 6 raw oysters (I think I like the pacific variety best), and 6 charbroiled ones (excellent) with a breadcrumb, garlic, butter, and parmesan cheese (I think) topping.
2) Mr. B's Bistro (FQ) - excellent and highly recommended. GF had their crab cake and panko crusted shrimp (delicious says the GF), and I had their gumbo ya-ya and BBQ shrimp (both excellent). Their gumbo was the best I tried during the trip; it was smoky and had a full-bodied consistency that I liked. The BBQ shrimp was messy to eat, but the sauce on which the shrimp was placed was sinfully rich. Unfortunately, I did not see their wine list. I had a potent Sazerac instead.
3) La Divina Gelateria (Garden District on Magazine Street) - great gelato. We had the King (banana, chocolate, and peanuts).
4) Casamiento's (not sure if it's still part of the Garden District but also on Magazine Street) - good. GF had a fried shrimp platter. I had a cup of their gumbo and oyster stew plus a half of an oyster loaf (it's really a fried oyster sandwich with lettuce and tomato). The gumbo was okay while the oyster stew was slightly better. The latter was like a New England chowder without the potatoes.
5) Cochon - good to very good. I was expecting to be wowed. GF had the BBQ ribs (very good) and smoked beef brisket (good to very good) while I had the pork cheeks (good but I think it was overcooked) and the smoked ham hocks (good to very good). All were good, but none of the dishes didn't blow me away. Although I didn't have any wine here, their list looked attractively priced. I saw a 2002 Burgundy Premier Cru for $80 that I would have tried if we weren't meeting friends at WINO after. Their Hurricane was tasty though.
6) Oak Alley restaurant (somewhere outside of New Orleans) - good to very good. There weren't too many dining options in the area, so we settled for this for lunch. We shared the gumbo (not good, watery), crawfish etouffee (very good), pecan pie (good), and bread pudding (very good). The plantation itself had beautiful grounds with its majestic oak trees. The tour was just okay. A better tour was at the Laura plantation (about 3 miles away).
7) Jacques-IMO's Cafe (somewhere in Uptown) - very good to excellent, highly recommended. We shared with friends the alligator cheesecake (excellent), shrimp on top of fried green tomatoes (excellent), some kind of eggplant with oysters and a mushroom sauce (excellent), crawfish etouffee (okay), some kind of squash dish (excellent), and creme brulee (very good). Their Hurricane's were also great.
8) Galatoires - excellent, highly recommended for their Friday lunch on their first floor dining area. We placed our names on the list for their downstairs dining room. Apparently, the Friday lunch is a popular time to go. I thought it was worth the wait and hassle. Very lively atmosphere. We shared the Galatoire Grand Goute -- shrimp remoulade, crab maison, and shrimp cocktail (I think). GF had the stuffed eggplant with crabmeat and shrimp (really it was all the latter) and pecan pie. I had the Crabmeat Sardou (sauteed spinach with lump crabmeat and hollandaise sauce) and banana bread pudding. All were delicious.
Posts: 1449 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: Aug 05, 2007
Dick and Jenny's- this is the type of place that defines why N.O. is such a great food place. Little neighborhood restaurant doing great food at reasonable prices. Top of our return list- Fried Oysters( best of the trip), shrimp pasta, stuffed pork tenderloin, shrimp and sausage cheesecake
Drago's- charbroiled oysters and seafood po boys
Stanley's- great concept. High end diner in the french qtr. Great sandwiches and breakfast.
NOLA- best shrimp and grits, duck and redfish.
Parkway Bakery and Tavern- awesome Roast Beef po boy
New Jazz club in the Royal Sonesta. Preservation Hall was rockin as always. Another great visit to my hometown.
Originally posted by cali wine: snuck in for another quick trip. We hit:
Dick and Jenny's- this is the type of place that defines why N.O. is such a great food place. Little neighborhood restaurant doing great food at reasonable prices. Top of our return list- .
No question about. Glad to hear it remains a great "neighborhood bistro"
