Does Merlot only appeal to the high volume market or can it achieve greatness?
Merlot is a red grape varietal producing wine for the masses as well as wine that has, indeed, already achieved greatness for many years although is be few and far between. However, for many years, too few people knew about its limited greatness apart from the wine connoisseurs. According to Liza Zimmerman’s article “In Defense of Merlot” from the March 2008 issue of “Wine Business Monthly,” Merlot has been the dominant grape in high quality blends in Bordeaux and the New World for a long time. Nowadays, winemakers are making Merlot worldwide as a high-quality single-varietal or nearly single-varietal wine very much sought after despite the commercialization that the film “Sideways” has given this easy-to-drink variety.
Since the 1990’s, long before “Sideways” was filmed, Merlot had been marketed to the masses in the United States mainly as an easy-to-drink wine. What people always liked about Merlot is it is smooth, less-tannic, and fruity. According to Zimmerman, only a few savvy wine drinkers knew about the high quality support Merlot gave as the classic blending grape for the ever famous Bordeaux wines and for similar top styles produced in the New World. Further, the majority of wine drinkers thought little more of this wine as the one to order when in doubt. However, this “mass produced” perception about Merlot has improved. The upscale Merlot still has softer tannins because of its ripeness but what gives its upscale character includes its sweet alcohol and dark fruity aromas and flavors.
According to “Impact Databank,” Merlot wine sales have increased by about one million cases between 2005 and 2006. In Zimmerman’s article, it is argued that with the publicity that “Sideways” has drawn for this grape, many producers rigorously produce more upscale wines. Because Merlot ages faster than many other flavorful red grapes, there is great feasibility to make pleasant red wines that people can consume within a few years of aging. This helps support the reason why the demand for Merlot-dominant wines became popular. The adaptability this grape has to various types of locations, soils, and climates makes it that much more feasible to produce such versatile Merlot wines worldwide. Jancis Robinson suggests that this helps make Merlot a well known grape high in demand as Chardonnay is to white wine consumers.
Appealing to the high volume market, however, give rise to the stake of Merlot’s reputation. In the March 21, 2008 issue of the Wall Street Journal, wine columnist John Brecher tells how so many producers are ending up with weaker quality wines. He speculates the reason for this to be the increased demand for Merlot from the past ten years which, in turn, has stimulated the winemakers to concentrate on this grape. At the conclusion of his article, he does write about several high-quality, but expensive, producers in the United States and describes the better Merlots as dark, minerally, and full of dark berry fruits and chocolate. He compares this greater Merlot with Chateau Petrus as does Jancis Robinson in her writings.
Merlot’s greatness has always been there. However, many Merlot wines remain as basic as other easy-to-drink wines, sometimes very weak in flavor and aroma, sometimes good, and sometimes terrific.
"Burgundy makes you think of silly things: Bordeaux makes you talk about them, and Champagne makes you do them."-Brillat-Savarin
I'm almost positive I saw this posted in another forum on this site, but I can't find it.
In any case, of course Merlot can achieve greatness, both domestically and in other countries. Chateau Petrus, Tua Rita Redigaffi, Paloma, Pride, Betz Family Winery, Leonetti, etc. all make excellent Merlots (or blends thereof).
I can't stand generalizations made about a singular variety or region - they've all got something to offer.
Cheers!
Posts: 1402 | Location: Seattle, WA, USA | Registered: Mar 22, 2004
I have a wine event next month that requires me to bring a decandant bottle of California merlot. I'd like to stay in the $100-$125 range. Can you recommend a wine and vintage that would qualify?
I have a wine event next month that requires me to bring a decandant bottle of California merlot. I'd like to stay in the $100-$125 range. Can you recommend a wine and vintage that would qualify?
Decandant? Do you mean decantable, decadent, decent, or ?
At any rate, there are some really good merlots - Pahlmeyer makes a good one. In the mid 90s, it was one of the best merlots and one of the best wines in CA. Pride always makes a good one but it's big and I like the Foley Merlot more.
Paloma gets, or got a lot of play, it's also a big wine though. Stagsl Leap I never really cared for but Heitz was making a great one that aged nicely although I haven't picked it up in years.
But you needn't spend a lot - some of the inexpensive bottles aren't too bad. Robert Hall in Paso Robles makes a decent wine at a fair price. As does Chateau St Jean in Sonoma. And Whitehall Lane makes a merlot that's to me always a better value than their cabs.
Best of luck. Cheers.
Posts: 349 | Location: NY | Registered: Dec 09, 2007
Excuse the typo. I meant decadent, meaning really good. I was thinking about a 1997 Pahlmeyer as I've heard it is one of the best. Our course my cellar does not go back that far so I will be looking on the auction market to pick a bottle from the mid to late 90s. I'm not sure if merlot has the staying power of cabernets (i.e. how old of a California merlot would you want to drink?) I will also check out Pride, Paloma and Foley.
I have a wine event next month that requires me to bring a decandant bottle of California merlot. I'd like to stay in the $100-$125 range. Can you recommend a wine and vintage that would qualify?
Decandant? Do you mean decantable, decadent, decent, or ?
At any rate, there are some really good merlots - Pahlmeyer makes a good one. In the mid 90s, it was one of the best merlots and one of the best wines in CA. Pride always makes a good one but it's big and I like the Foley Merlot more.
Paloma gets, or got a lot of play, it's also a big wine though. Stagsl Leap I never really cared for but Heitz was making a great one that aged nicely although I haven't picked it up in years.
But you needn't spend a lot - some of the inexpensive bottles aren't too bad. Robert Hall in Paso Robles makes a decent wine at a fair price. As does Chateau St Jean in Sonoma. And Whitehall Lane makes a merlot that's to me always a better value than their cabs.
Best of luck. Cheers.
I'd like to add that clos du val's 2005 merlot is very good and 18$ if you buy in 12 packs
Posts: 2151 | Location: NYC | Registered: Feb 16, 2007
I was thinking about a 1997 Pahlmeyer as I've heard it is one of the best. Our course my cellar does not go back that far so I will be looking on the auction market to pick a bottle from the mid to late 90s. I'm not sure if merlot has the staying power of cabernets (i.e. how old of a California merlot would you want to drink?) I will also check out Pride, Paloma and Foley.
Thanks.
I don't see why a '97 Pahlmeyer, if it had been stored properly, wouldn't be wonderful. I recently found a bottle of a 1999 Chateau Souvrain in the back of my cellar that is still singing.
When in doubt, open another bottle.
Posts: 2190 | Location: Silver Spring MD (Near DC) | Registered: Nov 13, 2001
Try a 2006 Frog's Leap. It's $35 or so. I don't know how others rate it, but I thought it was quite good and after around 20 minutes it opened up nicely. I am not saying this is a 90+ bottle. But, for $35 it is worth it (in my opinion).
Irwin
Unless you're the lead sled dog, the view never changes.
In the 100-125 - Try 2005 Blackbird Vineyards Napa Proprietary Red. Have heard nothing but good things about this wine. Have a couple of bottles on the way can't wait to try it!!
It has been said that the Blackbird is somewhat approachable young. It has been compared to a Pomeral style bordeaux. I think the WA scored like a 94 or 95!! Do some research on it, I think it is a wine that will catch alot of people by suprise!!
Didn't know there was anything wrong with speculation I'm pretty sure that a lot of speculation takes place on these boards. Sorry to upset a couple of purists such as yourselves. Maybe one day I will be on your level.
Originally posted by NewbieWino: It has been said that the Blackbird is somewhat approachable young. It has been compared to a Pomeral style bordeaux. I think the WA scored like a 94 or 95!!
One guy on CT decanted it 48 hours and said it still wasn't ready, but who knows (I haven't tasted it). Oh, and WA scored it 91.
"Wine is sunlight held together by water" - Galileo
Oh and I forgot to mention, this is from someone who just registered 2 days ago whose first post was;
"Blackbird Vineyards?? Who has heard of it? Cali Merlot made like old style pomeral. Anyone tried it, is it worth the hype? Just ordered a bottle of the 05 red! Can't wait to try it. On the mailing list now, people are saying there might be a waiting list soon. Discuss!!
How's a couple more
Old style Pomeral???
----------------------- Its only Rock & Roll but I like it....
By the way, do you put out a newsletter or something? Somewhere I can subscribe? Because I want to learn everything that you know that way I can know it all too
Maybe you should try the wine first...
