2002 Lunau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie Le L d’Or, $14.45 – 17, 12% alc.: Medium straw color, with an intense core of under ripe green apple, a little quince, wet stones and rain water; good weight, excellent cut and a long finish. Very impressive already, and based on a delicious ’93 tasted about a year and a half ago, this should age well to its 10th birthday and beyond. Not your average Muscadet, and indeed, as concentrated as (if not more so than) any we’ve had the pleasure to enjoy.

- From Imported by Louis Dressner

Reporting from Day-twah,

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