PAUL PAZDAN OFF-LINE - 34th Street Cafe (Austin, TX) (3/24/2007)

Last night we gathered to meet Paul Pazdan and his wife to share wines with them and spread some of the Southern Hospitality we Austinites are known for. The food was outstanding and I would not be exaggerating by saying that we were literally assaulted by one tasty course after another. The food was as follows: mini tenderloin Burger with cave aged cheese, traditional gazpacho, salad greens with tabasco dressing and figs, venison on a bed of cheesy polenta, salmon on lentils and arugula, roasted peking duck breast with balsamic reduction, cheese course, and assorted desserts (chocolate truffle, meyer lemon tart, chocolate box). On to the wines:

• N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Extra Brut Vieillissment Prolongé Grand Cru - France, Champagne
  Loved this champagne. Soft effervescence, superb mouthfeel, brioche, yeasty, toasted hazelnut notes. Really outstanding stuff.
  
• 1996 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses - France, Champagne
  Not my favorite. Too much acidity reminiscent of sour apple. It's not bad though. Good mouthfeel and finish, just not exceptional last night.
  
• 1964 Valfieri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Excellent wine. Very light, rusty red color with a soaring nose of leafy forest, white truffle, strawberry, earth, and leather. One other taster commented that there was a duck liver pate flavor, which I'd agree with. Superb stuff and drinking perfectly.
  
• 1982 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Lovely wine that was arguably opened 10-20 years too early. Still a deep ruby red color without any bricking and laser focused fruit with pretty black truffle notes and tobacco and floral elements. I increasingly love Nebbiolo based wines and am entranced by their character when aged properly.
  
• 1983 Château Belair (Dubois-Challon) - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Fantastic bottle that showed mocha, blackberry, black truffle, autumnal flavors and aromas. Very velvety and sexy, and became more velvety as the evening wore on. Still had some tannin to resolve. This is made for the long haul.
  
• 1989 Château Pavie Macquin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Another superb bottle...tobacco, leather, currants, truffle, and a hint of spice. Extremely elegant wine with incredibly captivating texture. Thanks Paul!
  
• 2003 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  Really a bruiser of a burg. Tasted very good, and despite good ripeness, definitely not over the top. Had nice funk and pure red fruit. Sexy nose and lots of stuffing, this wine should last nicely.
  
• 1999 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Octagon Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Wow. If this is what Dehlingers are like at 8 years old, I need to age all mine as long as that...this bottle was arguably still a puppy. It had nice secondary aromas and flavors, but still showed tremendous fruit, a super silky texture, and a good dose of tannins. Still has a few years before hitting its plateau, I believe. Also shows that more recent California Pinot can age very well.
  
• 1999 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  Classic Pegau nose. Plum, currants, garrigue, and kirsch. It's all there and although the brett level was fairly high on this bottle, I actually thought it enhanced the wine and gave it an interesting character. Definitely a buy if I had a shot at it.
  
• 2000 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  From magnum. Nice nose and very similar to the 1999 in many ways, but it lacked the brett and was clearly less evolved. I could taste the Grenache a lot and this wine was opened early in its life. My guess is that it'll be at peak much later then the 1999. Still, great wine that will reward those who are patient.
  
• 2004 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  My least favorite of the Pinots last night...Although clearly a very compelling wine, when compared with everything else on the table last night, it seemed too simple and fruit-forward, even with 3 hours+ decanting. The strength of this wine is its focused fruit and impeccable balance. I would recommend leaving this alone for a good 3-5 years.
  
• 1996 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
  Legendary stuff. Maybe the best California Cab I've ever tasted. It was austere, dry, had lots of stuffing, and showed very nice currants, leather, chocolate and cigar box. I would have probably pegged it as young Bordeaux had we had it blind. Just awsome.
  
• 1988 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
  Lovely wine. I happen to be a big fan of Amarone and this was a great bottle that showed incredibly young with nice floral and raisiny notes. Packed with flavors without being over the top or cloying. Superb.
  
• 2004 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Campo de Borja Aquilon - Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja
  Oh boy....this one was tough for me. I blindly identified it as Spain, but thought it was a Priorat or Toro Syrah/Tempranillo blend. This Grenache is so concentrated that it is hard to imagine what it will age like. Those who love big and bold reds should seek this out. If you enjoy subtle wines, I recommend you stay away from this.
  

The one wine I didn't chronicle is a Lewis Sonoma Chardonnay that was very tasty, but I could not remember the vintage. Thanks to all that attended, I had a blast and I hope you did, as well. Thanks to Paul and his better half for sharing their wines with us and I hope we get to repeat this when you're next in town in October.
Posted from CellarTracker

Wow, quite a line up!
I'm really not a fan of domestic pinots but I do like Dehlinger.
I love mature Amarone. I had a regular '85 Masi abvout 2 years ago and it was amazing, like a really complex dry port. I still have 1.

Thanks for the notes.

quote:

1996 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

I have one bottle of this wine. How many more years should I keep it in the cellar?

quote:

Originally posted by Floppy:

quote:

1996 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

I have one bottle of this wine. How many more years should I keep it in the cellar?

Floppy.

As crazy as it sounds, I think this is drinking extremely well...with that said, I think you can wait another 5 years and be possibly even happier when you open it then.

SP

quote:

1964 Valfieri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Steffen, hi.

Please advise how have you served
1964 Valfieri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Decanted? Straight from the bottle?
Please give all peritent details.

quote:

Originally posted by Floppy:

quote:

1964 Valfieri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Steffen, hi.

Please advise how have you served
1964 Valfieri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Decanted? Straight from the bottle?
Please give all peritent details.

Floppy.

I believe this was served straight from the bottle without decanting. Served at room temperature (71 degrees or so). I thought it improved slightly with some air, so I don't think a short decant would hurt if you chose to do so.

SP