1999 Domaine Vincent Girardin Santenay “Clos de la Confrerie,” $19.99, 13% alc.: You could drop this ruby dark garnet into a blind tasting of West Coast Pinot Noirs, and it would be the perfect ringer; I have no doubt that with its big sweet toasty oak and bright smoky black cherry flavors and aromas, it would garner more than a few guesses that it came from California. Though not quite as expressive on the palate as on the nose, it has good intensity, silky tannins, good acidity and a decent finish. It’s not terribly complex, but it is appealing for its up-front bright fruit. Drink it up over the next year or two.

Reporting from Day-twah,

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