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It has taken quite some time to compile all my notes, but here it is.... MONTALCINO VISIT JUNE 2012 - Montalcino (8-6-2012-10-6-2012) During this stay I have tasted many 2007 Brunelli, some '06, several 2010 and 2007 Rosso di Montalcino and some IGT's. Over the past years I've always tried to make a mix between tastings in town at some of the enoteca, visit some of the lesser know / smaller producers and visits to some of the 'classics'. Same this year. My overall conclusions can be found below. I did not publish notes on some of the wines that I tasted because I only wrote down: "don't like". Those where La Gerla, Pinino, Caparzo (regular), Altesino (regular), Fanti and Fattoria die Barbi. This was mostly due to some dominant candied fruit element that I didn't like. I also have not been able to taste some of the wines that I was curious about: Fuligni, Salicutti, Valdicava. If you are missing them in the list below, its not because I didn't like them! Various tastings in town
Tasting at Sesta di Sopra Besides the wines below I also did a barrel tasting. Its always difficult to predict where wines are heading when they are still in the barrel. So, please take the points indications even less serious than you would do otherwise with my notes! - 2008 lots of bright fruit, chewy tannins with a slight edge. 90-91 - 2009 ripe black fruits, loads of structure, smooth and harmonious. It seems that its ready to bottle! 93-94. - 2010 opulent and fresh with mouth coating layers of silky tannins and loads of fresh fruit. This will be a big one! 95-97 - 2011 hard to judge, very primary, strawberry, medium structure.
Tasting at Casanova di Neri
Tasting at Querce Bettina This is one of the most recent new producers in Montalcino. I first discovered this winery in 2009 with the release of the 2004 vintage. It has since then been producing some of the better Brunelli that I tasted in recent vintages. The Rosso have a freshness and refinement that I like so much in some Rosso di Montalcino (others are Costanti, Poggio di Sotto and Salicutti).
Tasting at Conti Costanti After many visits to this winery over the past years, I finally manage to meet with Andrea Constanti. This was a memorable event that gave even more color to my experience with this historic estate. Perhaps the most notable fact is that everything Andrea told me about his work in the vineyard and the cellar confirmed what I appreciate so much about his wines: its all about maintaing freshness, elegance and complexity. I also tasted his 100% Merlot from '07: the Ardingo. According to Andrea "much easier to make". And I guess for some people also 'much easier to drink' when young. An interesting merlot nevertheless with some of that signature refinement of the Costanti wines. It reminded me a bit of Galatrona, while not reaching the density and complexity of that wine.
Some overall conclusions: - I tasted some great '07 Brunelli that are almost on par with '06. I prefer the freshness of the '06 vintage in most cases. - I also tasted many that I didn't like because of the heat, the candied fruit and sometimes hints of burned rubber. - The few '06 riserva that I've tasted where simply superb. Some of the best Brunelli I've ever had. - All 2010 Rosso di Montalcino I tasted where great. I expect that this will be an outstanding vintage with some similarities to '06 (the freshness) but with more density. - Several producers have decided to bottle their surplus Sangiovese production without aging on wood. They do it under the IGT denomination. I've tasted 2 of them, both showed great density of fruit and smoothness. Way better then most Sangiovese wines that go for the same price in supermarkets. Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | ||
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Wow what a report! Thanks for the great notes. I am a great fan of Querce Bettina and have the pleasure of enjoying their wines quite frequently! Your notes seem to also highlight another winery which I do not know; Cupano. Is it a new producer? Thanks again! | |||
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What a trip! My wife and I had the pleasure of staying at Banfi for an evening on our honeymoon, it was tremendous. Great Notes I think I might be able to help with the Pan, Pam dilemma | |||
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An review nothing less than excellent, Jochems. A well appreciated read and provides me some insightful and valued guidance towards upcoming releases. Well done! | |||
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Yes. PH | |||
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Jochems, sorry I missed you by two days, but thanks for reaching out to me. Perhaps next time. | |||
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Thanks for the great report. The biggest surprise to me was your report on Cupano. The owner and winemaker is a Frenchman who, when I have tasted his wines, uses only French barrique and the oak was overpowering. The last vintage I tasted was 2001 so he may have changed his style. Glad you finally got to meet Andrea. He is truly passionate about his wine and I can't wait to taste the '06 Riserva. | |||
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Yes, the Cupano was really the biggest surprise to me. It was definitely not over-oaked. I have an almost as sensitive 'dislike' factor for that as for the candied fruit that I tasted in some of the '07 Brunelli. It was one of the most fresh and refined '07 Brunello that I've tasted. Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | |||
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Just give me a (virtual) shout next time! I have some business reasons that make it a bit easier to make a quick trip to Italy these days. Please do give me an excuse to do it ![]() Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | |||
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There is one thing that I want to emphasize a bit more: Do try the '10 IGT if you can get hold of them. I think that Ettore from Sesta di Sopra mentioned that K&L would be getting some. These are fine wines in their own right, but also a quite unique chance to get a flavor for what a Brunello tastes like when it is transferred from the steel maceration tanks to the casks. I had the '10 from Querce Bettina last year just a few weeks before it would be transferred from steel to wood. The Il Campone is just that. But perhaps only a Brunellophile like me finds it fascinating to learn something about the development of such a great wine ![]() Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | |||
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Thanks for sharing your tasting experiences. I'll be there in two weeks and will make sure to try the Cupano. | |||
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Lucky you! Make sure you try the Costanti and the Querce Bettina and some Rosso '10 too ![]() Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | |||
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I tasted the '04 Costanti Riserva alongside the '06 Riserva, the '07 Normale and the 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Some quick observations: 2010 is going to be a great year for Montalcino wines. The Rossi that I have tasted are excellent and the 2010 Costanti is no exception. This wine is quite frankly as good as some BdM from 2000, 2003, and 2005. The 2007 BdM is a polished wine with very pure fruit, better than average acidity, and a medium to long finish. It was actually less expressive than the '04 and '06 Riservas. I enjoyed it very much. The 2006 BdM Riserva is a fantastic wine. If any of you have tasted the '01 and enjoyed it in its youth you will love the '06. I agree with Jochems, this is a refined and complex wine. Great structure for the long haul. I would definitely say this wine is a buy without any reservations. The real eye opener for me was the '04 Riserva. I remembered this wine as somewhat backward and not really having an identity. There had been pretty drastic bottle variation on this wine. This bottle was beautiful. I did not expect it to be so expressive. The bottle was popped and poured and I then took it to lunch. Wonderful aromas of tart cherries, leather, and even a slight scent of porcini mushrooms. The wine evoked what I love about Brunello - the sense of place that Sangiovese only tastes like this from one place in the world. I hope the bottle variation was an anomoly and that future bottles will be this good. What an absolute treat. | |||
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Very nice! Costanti is one of my favs every year. | |||
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+1, my favourite producer. Thanks for the update on these wines Longboarder...I'm well-stocked on the 04 Ris. and 06 Normale, and this is a good reminder to take the plunge and pick up some of the 06 Riserva. | |||
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Longboarder, thank you for all your Montalcino notes. Much appreciated. | |||
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Another day of tasting in Montalcino. I visited with Mastrojanni and Argiano, along with Poggio Antico. I also tasted 10 additional Brunelli in the Enoteca Piazza. Too many wines to take detailed notes but this is what I wrote down: Mastrojanni - I had a bottle of the '95 normale for dinner last night so that was my reference point. The '95 was an excellent wine that is drinking beautifully right now. I also tasted the '06 normale beside it. The debate is whether the newer wines will evolve like the '95 has. Really nobody knows but I guess only 11 more years to find out. One of the most experienced palates in Montalcino is Mario who is the owner of Il Giglio. He feels very strongly that the good wines of today will be as good or better than the wines of the past. He is one of the few people that would have tasted the older Brunelli in their youth. That gives me reason to be optimistic. Now to the 2007's. 2007 Mastrojanni Normale - Bright ruby color with nose of plums, anise, and tobacco. Fresh acidity, with tannins present on the back of the tongue. No evidence of the candied fruit that Jochems mentioned in the Loreto. 92 points. 2007 Mastrojanni Loreto - This is a new wine for Mastrojanni and comes from a single vineyard next to the winery. The vineyard is at about 400 meters above sea level. Ruby color with raspberries and cherries. I would not have called them candied but they are predominant. A little less apparent acidity but not a bad wine. 90 points. BTW, I also tasted the 2009 version of this wine from botti. I would say they are definitely learning what to do with this vineyard. The '09 was very good which surprised me greatly. 2010 Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino - Again, 2010 is going to be special. This is a powerful RdM that can stand some additional aging. 90 points. 2012 Mastrojanni BdM from Stainless - The miracle of 2012 was once again made evident to me while tasting all three brunelli to come. What was so enlightening was that all three wines (normale, Loreto, and the Schiena di Asino) were totally different. The normale's tannins hit you right up front on your palate. The Loreto concentrated on the back of your tongue. The Schiena just coated your mouth. I have to say that I have never tasted brunello this young that showed so well. No wood treatment and still structured with excellent acidity. I was very pleasantly surprised. 2004 Poggio Antico Riserva - I must admit that I have never been a fan of Altero from Poggio Antico so I decided not to taste it today. I was running short of time so I only tasted the '04 Riserva. A nice wine but I can't seem to get excited about the house style of this winery. Great people and a beautiful spot. I know others like it much better than me. That's what makes wine so interesting. 2007 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino - This estate is going back to their roots since the scandal with the 2003 vintage. IMO, the '07 is the best BdM they have made since 1995. It is extremely well balanced and more elegant than the recent vintages. Ruby color with tart cherries, spices, and silky tannins. I liked it very much. 93 points. Now for my very quick observations from the tasting at the Piazza: 2007 Fuligni Normale - Excellent with tart fruit and balanced acidity. 94 2007 Lisini Normale - Good but not great. Something a little off with this one. 88 2007 Canalicchio di Sopra - Very good with silky tannins. 91 2007 Poggio San Polo - Good but not up to the 2006. 89 2007 Sassosole Normale - Very good wine. This estate is moving up. 92 2004 Col d'Orcia Poggio al Vento - An excellent wine that has everything I look for in a Brunello. The very distinctive nose of rosemary is there with all elements in perfect balance. One of the best young PaV's I have tasted. 96-97 2006 Il Poggione Riserva - Excellent and very traditional in style. 94 2006 Il Paridisio Riserva - Tasted like a dirty wine with some brett. Maybe an off bottle. 85 2006 La Poderina Poggio Anale (Banale) - Not bad but overpriced. 90 2005 Soldera Case Basse Riserva - Some VA so not sure what to think. No score. Good to see that Fuligni continues to perform so well year in and year out. The Poggio al Vento is a tremedous wine and 60 Euros here. Many '06 and '07 Normali are that price or higher. 2007 is a very good year that should evolve similarly to the 1993 vintage which I think has always been overlooked for quality. It appears that most prices have held steady or have dropped slightly from 2006. There are actually some relative bargains to be found. Sassosole is one as it is 21 Euros here. Planning to taste some Super Tuscans tomorrow. | |||
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LB, Thanks for your update! The 2010 seems to become a superb vintage. Good to read that you enjoyed the '06 riserva.
I have had the '04 normale now 4 times. The first time was during our offline. This must have been a single off-bottle. All three other bottles were really good (2 of them being half bottles). Albert Jochems - life is to short to drink bad wines - | |||
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Update on the 2007 Lisini Normale - This bottle was much better than the one I tasted last year. In fact, I considered it one of the best 2007 normali that I tasted. Expressive nose and a relatively long finish. Nice red cherry fruit and a spiciness that was pleasing. I hope the wine has progressed beyond what I tasted before. | |||
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