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Well, we tried to do our part during the renewal of hostilities last weekend between the Detroit Red Wings and the Colorado Avalanche. We opened some big red Rhône mojo, but it was to no avail, as the Wings lost both ends of the first home and home series the two teams had ever played, 1-0 at Joe Louis Arena and 5-3 in Denver. Despite the two losses, this partisan Wingnut couldn’t help but marvel at the level of hockey played those 120 minutes of action, which is only what one expects from this rivalry.

And, despite the two losses, this taster couldn’t help but enjoy two seriously fine young Châteauneuf du Papes, either.

1999 Les Cailloux Châteauneuf du Pape, $26.99, 14% alc.: Ruby dark garnet, with smoky black currant, blackberry, black cherry flavors and aromas shaded with a little leather and tar, this is one big mouthful of rich, dense, powerful wine, with a good dose of tannins and a nice long finish. Yes, it’s really too young, but it’s still showing a lot of tasty fruit with a few hours worth of air, and we had no problems savoring it throughout the evening. A 10-year wine, no sweat.

Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.

2000 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf du Pape, $34, 13.5% alc.: As good as the Les Cailloux is, this one’s even better (IMNSHO). Dark garnet, with a deeper, muskier, more herbaceous nose, this has a wonderful earthy plum and black currant character, accented with a little licorice and dark chocolate. It’s even more accessible than the Les Cailloux, and yet that pretty signature Pegau perfume lurks in the background, giving little hints of things to come. Tannins? Yes, but this is so tasty already, with good acidity and a long finish. Again, one to put down ‘til at least its 10th birthday, so why do I want to open another one tonight?

Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI

Happily, things were much improved the following weekend, when the Wings won their 1st laugher in a long while, 6-2 over the Atlanta Thrashers (coached by Bob Hartley, who was fired by Colorado in December). Having gotten the lingering distraction of finally scoring his 700th goal out of the way earlier in the week, Brett Hull scored twice and assisted on two more Wings’ goals to lead the way, and it was good to see Chris Chelios back on the blue line once again.

And of course, another fine young Châteauneuf didn’t hurt things at all.

2000 Paul Jaboulet Aine Châteauneuf du Pape Les Cedres ®, $26.99, 14% alc.: The soft smoke, berry and plum bouquet doesn’t exactly jump out of the glass at first, but the flavors really pick things up nicely, with good concentration and intensity, and a subtle floral note adds to the appeal. The nose comes out more with some swirlatude, as nice notes of chocolate and nutmeg emerge with air, and this just gets better and better as it opens. It may not be quite as powerful as the previous two noted here, but it still has the structure to improve through 2010 and beyond.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd., New York, NY

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