After the '98 Mogador was unveiled, the stakes were raised when my friends brought up the '98 Dofi from the cellar. Dofi is Alvaro Palacios' single vineyard blend of Garnacha and Cabernet (Gastro, am I missing other varietals?).
The words spoken when this wine was tasted (decanted for 30 min) was "aristocratic," "wine in an Armani suit," and "Spanish 1st Growth." Ultra-refined nose of anise and licorice, this medium/full-bodied wine was super-polished with all the elements in perfect balance. And the finish? A mile long, lasting 45+ seconds. Wonderful, lingering finish that keeps changing on your palate. One of the best Spanish wines I have ever tasted. 95-97+ pts.
Accessible and very tempting now, but will be unbelievable in 5-10 years.
Posts: 1258 | Location: Northern VA | Registered: May 03, 2002
jaimetown, wow! You really go high with your rating! I have some of the 1998 in my cellar too, but so far time I've preferred the 1997. The 1998 had a slightly funky rubber/latex-nose last time I've tried it. Is it gone now?
Mmmm, that sounds fun... I suspect some Cariñena goes in the blend too, judging from the 99 I had just weeks ago, but the sad truth is that indeed this is becoming a Spanish 1st growth: a good deal of it is selling en primeur, for example, and its price has gone from 35€ for the 97 to well over 70€ for the 99. Some of these days the Clos Erasmus will feel threatened and increase its price by 25€ just to keep the distance... Meanwhile the Mogador is a relative bargain, but Mogador "demands" more calendar-gazing than this. The 99 Dofí could be opened anytime since its release and be great, which cannot be said of any recent Mogador...
Yes, I do believe this is the highest rating I've ever given on a wine here on the WS boards. Now that I have spoken, you can expect prices to double around the world! It is the best Priorat I've tasted so far ('98s include Mogador, Cims de Porrerra, Clos Martinet, '97 Gran Clos) - I haven't had Clos Erasmus or L'Ermita, but that requires serious $$$.
I did not get any of the rubber notes that you have gotten.
Gastro,
Yes, there's something to be said about "breed" and "class" in a wine. This wine definitely has it. The Mogador I imagine will be wonderful in many years, though it is a different animal.
The interesting thing about these wines were the noticable lack of strong mineral elements that is distinct to Priorat.
Posts: 1258 | Location: Northern VA | Registered: May 03, 2002
I believe Marc's praise for the 97 Dofí has to do with its showing terroir more truthfully due to lack of monstrosity. In a way the mineral side of Priorat gets layered upon with such loads of fruit that it may eventually suffer from some lack of typicity until enough bottle age lets it reemerge (if it does, which I believe). So your point about waiting on them regardless of how great they taste now is well taken
Gentlemen, your excellent exchange prompts me to ask how long you would wait to begin sampling the '99 Mogador. I have only three bottles to work with.
Posts: 223 | Location: San Francisco, CA | Registered: Apr 30, 2002
I waited -2 months, but only because it was leaking It was still pretty tannic, beyond enjoyable I'd say, and not expressive enough. Two years sounds safe before the first cork goes off. Then you should be able to administer the other two based on your own impression. Having said that, if it hadn't been leaking I'd be opening it by next Xmas or so...but that's me...
I have serious concerns regarding the price development of Finca Dofi. While I could still buy @ EUR 40 from my favourite 1997 vintage, I paid EUR 50 for the 1998 and the 1999 and 2000 are around EUR 60 - 65. Well at this price level it has very hard competition (I could buy 2000 Gruaud Larose for EUR 60 around here!). I stopped buying after the 1998 vintage.
Legend has it (& I for one believe it) that Palacios makes whoever aspires to distribution buy two whole vintages in advance, put the money on the table whatever the quality turns out to be. The guy in question sure must get some financial relief and so he does the same deal with regional distributors and so on...so virtually everybody charges extra to ensure some quick profit in return for the risk. By the time the wine hits the shelves... That has happened to the Les Terrasses bottling too, regardless of the fiercer competition at that level. I bought the 96 for 10€ and the 99 was alrealy 19-22€...
sorry, I must have seemed a bit antiquated with my statement above: I did not stop buying Finca Dofi after 1998, since then I BOYCOTT Finca Dofi and all the other Palacios-stuff!!!!!
At least you guys don't have as many bad $50+ CA Cabs in your markets...
Seriously though, the price is quite high for Spanish wine, but you know the price will never come back down for Palacios' wines - especially now that he is the toast of the wine-world when it comes to Spain.
Posts: 1258 | Location: Northern VA | Registered: May 03, 2002
Jaimetown, I'm not so sure about that! I've noticed sinking auction prices for Palacios wines here in Switzerland. And a many times both Finca Dofi and L'Ermita did not sell at all.
Count me on the pro-Palacios side. I visited Alvaro in Priorat earlier this month and was mightily impressed by his love for the land, his fanatical work ethic and the professionalism of his vineyard and winery techniques.
As for guaging when to drink, it's tricky, because the track record is so skimpy. We shared a 1992 Finca Dofi that was already quite mature -- but then, it was a very different wine back then, made in a different winery from grapes that weren't yet farmed the way he wanted. I believe the more recent vintages will drink well for at least a decade.
FYI, here's my TN on Finca Dofi 1998:
Winery: Alvaro Palacios Wine: Priorat Finca Dofí 1998 Score: 92 Price: $55 Country: Spain Region: Spain Issue: Nov 30, 2000 Seductive. This inky red is rich with velvety blackberry and cassis flavors. Concentrated, it shows excellent balance and even finesse, with plenty of fruit on the long finish. Drink now through 2010. (TM)
It is the best Priorat I've tasted so far ('98s include Mogador, Cims de Porrerra, Clos Martinet, '97 Gran Clos) - I haven't had Clos Erasmus or L'Ermita, but that requires serious $$$.
