Enjoyed two terrific wines recently… The ’03 Goldeneye Migration pinot (Tue-Thu) and the ’97 Elderton CSM tonight. First the CSM – knock-out nose of cherries, acacia flowers, vanilla and spice after some initial heat. Deep, dark crimson/purple with no sign of bricking. Black cherry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit with tons of glycerin. Very weighty, but not at all over-the-top. Great structure – mineral, acid and persistent tannin on the long, satisfying finish. Good complexity - the shiraz kicks in after 40 minutes or so with a hint of coconut milk at mid-palate. This wine is spectacular and will easily go another two years, probably longer. I think I paid $26. 93 points!

Why oh why did I open this wine? I guess I was curious/scared over recent forum discussions about premature aging of domestic cabernet. I have multi-bottle verticals (‘97-‘02) of the Barossa shiraz, Command, and CSM and I’ve had fantasies about an “Elderton through the years” tasting. The CSM was my only ’97, however, and it would have been just fine by the time the ’01 Command was drinkable. I blinked…

The ’03 Migration is the real deal – very, very rich and complex. Super cherry, plum and strawberry fruit with crisp acidity Plump, viscous, silky, spicy and at its best on the third night after opening. At $26-$28, stock-up. 92+ points.