2003 Two Hands Merlot / Cabernet Franc Shovel Blanc, Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 30%, $35ish US, 14.5%alc.: Bobbie Parker calls this “one of the most successful blends of Merlot and Cabernet Franc I have tasted outside of Bordeaux…”, but I’m glad that I’ve never had to endure a blend of this type before that blasts so much overt new oak. (He only gave it 87 points, so I’m not sure what he was so enthused about, but then, I’m not a numbers guy anyway.) The fumes evoke something almost akin to menthol over all of the obvious new wood, which gives every impression of being American. (Alliance Wines, Two Hands UK importer describes their wines as being “gently oaked,” and Parker's notes mention “a subtle integration of wood,” but there’s nothing gentle or subtle about the one I sampled.) There’s some vanilla pudding, black cherry and black plum all trying to break through, and on the palate, they finally do, especially with air. In the mouth, this dense wine shows more of its true depth, with a solid earthy core of big, ripe, spicy fruit.

The Stelvin cap didn’t work so well with this bottle, either. I twisted and twisted again (like we did last summer), and it just went ‘round and ‘round like a carousel. I finally got a double grip and ripped. The seal was compromised from the first twist of the wrist.

Fans of this style may score this even higher that Bobbie, and I have no problem with that; to me, it tastes nothing like any Bordeaux blend that has ever appealed to me. It’s just way too ripe and horridly overoaked, at least right now. The problem is, while it does have structure, I wonder if it‘ll throw off the flotsam and jetsam over a decade or so and develop into something more than it would suggest at this time. I won’t invest in another to find out.

US Importer: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA

Reporting from Day-twah,

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